A Christian country from the 3rd century, and purportedly home to the ark of the covenant, Ethiopia is not only splendidly beautiful but also culturally rich. The rock hewn churches of Lalibela are worth the trip alone, but it’s the hiking in the Simien Mountains National Park which is the country’s true gem.
The drive from Gondar towards the small village of Debark, from where trekking permits and guides are arranged, takes you through the country’s most fertile lands, where farmers toil in the African sun, whilst the women fetch water or pound teff outside their huts to make injera - a sponge-like bread.
While called the Simien Mountain National park, it’s actually more like a huge escarpment, which in some places is a mile high, rather than a series of mountains. The hiking here, while never being actually flat, is never too steep or challenging either - thus allowing you to take your time and admire the far reaching views, while walking through areas of giant lobelia and red hot pokers.
It’s not just the landscape that make the park special, it’s the wildlife too, as the park is home to many endemic species: the elusive Simien fox and endangered Walia Ibex, as well as much less elusive troops of territorial, red chested Gelada baboon, that can number more than a hundred individuals. It is also a bird watcher’s paradise, with numerous raptors and vultures to spot. There are not too many places in the world where you can sit on the edge of a mile high escarpment, watching huge vultures and eagles soaring below you.
The hiking between the recognised campsites leads you through small farming villages, and is relatively easy, other than the altitude - which is around 4,000 metres. There are numerous options from day hikes to longer multiple day treks. Our favourite is a four/five day trek from Sankaber camp to Chennek with an ascent of Bwahit Peak.
It’s also possible to hike to Ethiopia’s highest peak, Ras Deshen at 4533m. It’s actually a two day hike outside the park, but well worth it if you have the time.
To hike in the park, a guide and armed ranger are compulsory, as leopards do roam the base of the escarpment. The guides are excellent and will tell you all about the local customs, how they use all the different plants etc. Mules and muleteers can, and should, be hired once in the park, as it’s a great way of employing a local and helping the people of this fantastic yet poor country.
