There are many ways to tackle the Horseshoe hike, all of which have their merits, but we like the approach from the north best of all. It’s a longer approach than from the south, but rather than the often preferred shorter and steeper one, we’ve chosen the quieter, more sheltered – and in our opinion, more beautiful - hike up through the Cwm Sere valley.
After parking in the small car park on the far side on the Cwm Gwdi training camp, you head left over a stile, crossing a stream, before hiking past gorse bushes smelling sweetly of coconut, and an area of woodland.
Ignore the obvious path straight up to Pen Y Fan, but rather continue traversing the grassy hillside before turning south. The well-trodden path meanders gently up the Cwm Sere valley, over many small streams, which feed the Nant Sere. After rain it’s worth the effort of dropping down to the main stream, as there are a couple of small waterfalls.
Before reaching the imposing north face of Pen y Fan, zig-zag your way up to the Bryn Teg ridge, to your left. This is the main slog of the hike, as there is no real path, but if taken slowly is not too bad, even for children.
Once on the ridge there is a short but steep hike to the summit of Cribyn. From here the views across the Brecon Beacons National Park are fantastic. The Brecon and Usk river valleys are clearly visible, as is the impressive peak of Fan y Big and the Black Mountains rolling off towards England.
Once you’ve taken in the views, and caught your breath, steadily climb the further 90 metres of elevation on a rocky path, which joins the Brecon Beacons Way long distance path, to Pen y Fan. From the highest peak in the UK south of Snowdonia, you will often see pairs of hunting buzzards, soaring in the thermals.
You then continue to traverse the main horseshoe ridge, slowly losing height, before leaving the Brecon Beacons Way and dropping steeply down to the obvious small lake ,Llyn Cwm llwch. The path continues on northward, joining a farm track which eventually joins a single track road back to the car park.