The only way is up!

Clinging to a sheer rock face 100ft up is not the time to discover you don’t have a head for heights. But it is a fine spot to realise you’re not only unafraid, but gloriously exhilarated!

I’m in Norway, gripping onto one large metal rung while my feet rest on another, on the Tyssedal via ferrata above the old industrial town of Odda. Via ferrata is an Italian phrase which translates as iron way, and it’s a kind of ‘Blue Peter climbing’ where footholds are pre-set in the rock and you clip onto a line that someone prepared earlier.



I’d probably never have attempted full rock climbing, but via ferrata offers bravery lightweights like me the chance to experience the terror, or elation, of climbing amid beautiful, dramatic scenery.

A holiday in Norway’s fjords involves lots of traveling to experience the best of the scenery and culture. Our adventure break with Fjord Tours took in Hardangerfjord – the queen of the Norwegian fjords – and Rosendal. We wanted to experience mountains, roaring waterfalls, dramatic fjords and verdant orchards and travelled by a mix of ferry and bus, but you’ll likely be cycling, kayaking, walking and climbing if you make the most of the various activities on offer. Accommodation is in some of Norway’s oldest hotels, including the very cute 18^th century Utne Hotel – reputed to be haunted, of course – and we sampled delicious fresh local food along the way.

We’d begun by flying into Bergen – Norway’s second largest city - in a torrential downpour that saw 35mm fall on our first night. Still, surely the Norse gods would look kindly on us visitors in the morning...

Day one: the paddle

The next day we started our trip into Hardangerfjord by taking the ferry to Rosendal - the first of many sedate boat journeys in a region that’s a disorientating collection of peninsulas and islands. Ferries are the main way of getting from A to B and views can be spectacular. However, rather than clear blue skies and breathtaking views of green, sunny slopes, we looked up to dark clouds, occasionally broken by sudden shafts of sunlight – a brooding, monochrome skyscape.



The Folgefonna Glacier was our first destination – and we were switching from ferry to kayak for a close encounter with the ice. But it was chucking it down when we arrived at the launch point.

Worse, the wind was up. In the hope things might improve we got wetsuited and booted and launched our kayaks in the shelter of a small lagoon. Alas, any attempt to emerge into open water was met with a fierce wind and waves. After an hour of paddling round the lagoon we abandoned our attempt to reach the glacier.

‘You should have been here two weeks ago,’ said our action-man guide Andreas Skogseth – not for the last time - as, back on the bus, he showed some pictures of what we should have seen – dramatic curtains of blue ice amid an otherwordly landscape.



Back at the fjord, the weather was calmer and we paddled across the serene waters to a small island, where we admired some sculptures of Vikings made out of scrap metal, and drank cider and Acquavit, before returning to the Rosendal Fjord Hotel.

Day two: the hike

Rain was forecast again, as we began our journey by road to Utne and a ferry to Tjoflot. Hopping back onto the bus, we arrived at the start point for our hike up Oksen - the Ox – from which we hoped for excellent views.

Once again, it was pouring when we arrived at a deserted car park, where we pulled on wet-weather gear and double-wrapped our sandwiches. Andreas felt lucky. ‘The weather can change and it’s forecast to improve.’



We opted for optimism over pessimism. Two hours later, after hiking gamely up watery paths and fording mountain streams we stood on the Ox’s Back and gazed out at...nothing. No promised panoramic views of three fjords. Just a dank, grey mist. ‘You should have been here two weeks ago,’ said Andreas.

We turned round and began the trudge back. Once in the treeline, amazingly, the clouds lifted enough to see the beautiful waters through the trees –green spot colour brightening the monochrome.

Hike over, we took a boat back over to Utne for dinner at the Utne Hotel, one of Norway’s oldest and some dry clothes.

Day 3: the climb

I’d been apprehensive about hanging off a rockface so this was a real highlight of the trip for me. Anyone can have a go at the via ferrata, and before you’re let loose on the main rock face you try out your head for heights - and the equipment - on a 30m test wall. Decide it’s not for you and you can bale out and hike up, or saunter back down.



We began our climb proper on an old wooden ladder, before branching out for a limb-stretching traverse, followed by a tricky climb with a slight overhang and a final cliffhanging traverse across a sheer vertical. I enjoyed the physicality of it, and got into the rhythm of clipping carabiners to the lines.

From there it was back to Lofthus and some spa time in the Hotel Ullensvang, where the heated outdoor pool means you can enjoy the view without the chill.

Day 4: the freefall

Norway had one last surprise for us, as we made our way back to Bergen via Voss – the country’s adventure capital and a leading ski resort in winter. We stopped at Voss Vind, Northern Europe’s first and only vertical wind tunnel to try a simulated freefall. Donning jumpsuits, goggles and ear plugs, one by one we entered the tunnel with the instructor, who guided us through the principles of freefall until, arms and legs outstretched, we could fly like superheroes. A brief (each ‘flight’ lasts around 2mins) but remarkably satisfying experience.



Back in Bergen, we had time to wander round the lanes behind the old Hanseatic wooden buildings and to ride up the Floibanen funicular to take in the wonderful panorama of the city.

We only scratched the surface of Norway’s incredible landscape. Be prepared to pack your adrenalin along with your camera and hiking boots, but don’t be surprised if you get here two weeks later than you should have done!

 


Getting there:

Norwegian Airlines (www.norwegian.com) and British Airways (www.ba.com) both fly to Bergen (two hours from the UK) from selected UK airports, including London, Edinburgh and Manchester.

When to go

Summer, obviously, if you want to enjoy warm-weather activities, but Norway is a year-round destination and a great spot for a ski holiday, too. Many of the ‘nutshell’ round trips take place all year round.

Where to stay

Active Traveller stayed at the Rosendal Fjord hotel, Rosendal (www.rosendal-fjordhotel.no);

Utne Hotel, Utne (www.utnehotel.no) - one of Norway’s oldest hotels, dating back to 1722;

Hotel Ullensvang, Lofthus (www.hotel-ullensvang.no) – the composer Edvard Grieg stayed and wrote here over many years and his humble composer’s cabin still stands in the hotel’s gardens. It’s a wonderfully old-fashioned eclectic hotel with a series of characterful lounges reflecting Norway’s history and traditional Norwegian decor, and with a a stunningly modern indoor/outdoor pool offering views across to the Folgefonna glacier

Tour Operators

Fjord Tours (www.fjordtours.com , founded in 1982, offers package tours throughout Norway on both the Norwegian and international markets.

The Hardanger in a Nutshell round trip runs between 1 May – 31 October and is available from Bergen and Oslo. Cost: from 2,240NK (approx £250) for a minimum of two days. Day trips from Bergen are also available, from 850NK.
 

Useful contacts

www.visitbergen.com

www.visitvoss.no

www.fjordnorway.com




AT Top tips

Be prepared for all weathers, especially if you go in the late autumn. And just do whatever it takes to get out into the landscape.
 

Must do

Via ferrata at Tyssedal, especially if you’ve never tried climbing. It’s safe and may just be the start of a love affair with rockfaces. Cost is 500NK (about £50) per person with guide and all equipment for 3-4 hours. Great value. (www.opplevodda.com)

And the wind tunnel at Voss – you’ll believe a man can fly (www.vossvind.no)