Park Life‘It’s a blue penguin!’ a man shout to us from the beach. A penguin? Where? We stop paddling, look around and see a little bird passing just by the front of our kayak. At first it would be easy to confuse it with an everyday duck, but giving it a second look, it is very noticeable that its head, beak and body shape are different. It doesn’t seem to be scared or annoyed by our presence, but to the contrary keeps swimming around us. It is so cute I want to take it back home – not very practical of course, and also strictly forbidden. We are in the Tonga Island Marine Reserve, in Abel Tasman National Park, in the South Island of New Zealand. Abel Taman is the smallest national park in New Zealand with only 225 sq kilometres of protected coastline.
This is my third trip to New Zealand, but the first time I am visiting the north west part of the south island. New Zealand is not a large country, but the landscape, vegetation and climate vary so much from one place to another: there are beaches, volcanoes, glaciers, and luxuriant forests. Add excellent food and wine into the mix, and you can understand why the friendly inhabitants believe their country is paradise on earth. However, there is one less enjoyable aspect of New Zealand: the weather is quite unpredictable and it can sometimes rain – a lot. That’s why this time, my partner James and I decided to go during their summer (January in the UK) and to spend most of our time in one of the warmest part of the country.
The trip doesn’t start too well as we take the ferry from Wellington on an extremely windy and rainy ‘summer’ morning. Nevertheless, standing on the deck with my waterproof jacket on, holding the bar so I don’t get blown away, I decide to keep my spirits up, as it can only be better on the other side of the Cook straight. And it is: three hours later we arrive in Picton where the sun is shining. After picking up our rental car, we head west to the Abel Tasman National Park.
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This park, with more than 50 beaches of golden sand, is known as one of the most beautiful parks in New Zealand. Visitors can explore the park hiking along the coastal walkway and the inland track, or by sea-kayaking. We choose the second option. Our plan is to paddle as far as Tonga Island, in the middle of the park, spend two nights in two of the park’s twenty-one campsites and come back. Campsites must be booked in advance as they are all quite small and are very busy during the high season, even though they are basic, with toilets but no showers. If we get too tired, we can get one of the sea-shuttles (motor boats that can carry about 20 people and equipment) that operates regularly from several points in the park and also carries kayaks.
After a quiet night in Marahau, a little hamlet located at the park’s southern entrance, we collect our double kayak and load it with our camping gear as well as enough food and drink for three days. Although a few campsites have drinkable water, there are no shops in the park.
One of the instructors from the hire centre gives us some safety instructions, checks we are fine once on the water, and off we go. The sea is very calm it is easy to paddle while enjoying the scenery of turquoise water, golden bays, fringed with jungle. We keep stopping for pictures, to look around to take the beauty and silence in. Of course we are not the only ones kayaking in the park, but it is quiet enough to be able to really appreciate its wilderness and beauty.
‘One, two, three!’ We coordinate getting out of the kayak so it doesn’t tip over. Then we drag it up the beach where we are stopping for lunch. It is sunny but not warm enough for swimming costumes or ‘togs’ (as the Kiwis say).
Back in our kayak, we are now ready to brave the mad mile, or think we are. This part can be very rough with strong currents over a distance of about a mile. Just as we enter it the sky becomes extremely grey, the wind starts to be violent and we have to face tough currents and big waves. With a bit of muscle power and determination, we eventually make
it to the end and collapse at our campsite
in Anchorage.
The following morning, we found out that we were unlucky as the mad mile was very calm the previous morning, and it is almost always easier to do it early in the day. Our arms are quite painful, but it doesn’t matter, we are happy to be back on the water once again. It is a glorious day, and the light seems to gild not only the sand but the whole landscape. We paddle up to Mosquito Bay where we are staying for the night, drop our stuff, then go to Tonga Island and spend the rest of the day looking for dolphins and seal colonies, swimming, and exploring new beaches and lagoons.
The weather turns scorching hot as we kayak back to our starting point, Marahau, so we stop several times to have a dip in the water. As I am lying down on the beach waiting to dry off after a swim, I think let’s do it again next year, New Zealand might be the paradise on earth after all.
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Some more delights...
Nelson Lake National Park
This park protects the northernmost Southern Alps range where numerous hikes are available, from short but still scenic walks to the 80 kilometre Traverse-Sabine Circuit. The little village of St Arnaud is the principal base for the park.
The Marlborough wine region
If you want to indulge yourself but keep active as well, opt for a wine tour by bike. It is a great way to discover the area as long as you don’t drink-bike. www.winemarlborough.net.nz
Kaikoura
This little town is located in a stunning spot, by the sea with snowy mountains in the background. It is one of the best place for whale-watching. www.kaikoura.co.nz
How to get there
Nadine flew with Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.co.uk). Off peak flights with Air New Zealand are from £614. Visit
www.newzealand.com for other airlines flying from the UK to New Zealand. If you can, try to break the journey by stopping one or two nights on the way in Asia – it will help you to get over the jetlag more easily
Staying there: Campsites can be booked on line via the Department of Conservation – there are also eight huts for people who don’t want to camp. Visit www.doc.govt.nz and go to Parks and Recreation, Abel Tasman National Park.
Activity: To hire kayaks or for a tailor-made kayaking trip with a guide, visit www.southern-exposure.co.nz. Nadine paid £52 per person for the three-day hire of the double kayak.
