'Once installed in your motor-home...you can have the freedom to go anywhere you please'. So states Canada's largest independently owned RV (Recreational Vehice - posh camper van to you can me!) rental company. But this is far from singing 'ging-gang-goolie' round the campfire - these camper vans are spacious, well appointed and very comfortable. Mine was home for seven nights as I drove through some of the most spectacular scenery I have ever seen - looking for great places to do some off-road cycling and hiking.
After a night in Calgary I collected my RV and set off on my adventure into the wilds of Canada. Half excited and half in trepidation wondering whether I should have hired a gun or not - to keep the bears at bay - I joined the I1/I1A and headed for my first stop - Banff.
Canadians are really proud of Banff National Park - renowned around the world for its 6641 square kilometres of mountains, forests and lakes. In the middle of this unspoilt wilderness you'll find Banff and Lake Louise. Indeed, just when I thought I'd taken a snap of the most beautiful scene I have ever clapped my eyes on, I turned the corner to find a view even more stunning than the last. Beautiful is simply too small a word to describe this region - it must be the closest earthly place to heaven itself.
Located at the boundary of Jasper and Banff National Parks, the Columbia Icefield is one of the largest accumulations of ice and snow south of the Arctic Circle. Covering an area of nearly 325 square kilometres, the constant accumulation of snow feeds eight major glaciers and its melt water feeds streams and rivers that flow into the Arctic, Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. A trip with the Icefield Explorer is a must - operates from April to October - a truly amazing experience.
Lake Louise was not quite what I expected. Apart from the famous hotel, the lake itself and surroundings there is nothing else there. There is certainly no town to speak of so you really shouldn't plan a great deal of time here other than what's needed to see Lake Louise itself and spend a day hiking around the surrounding area.
Next stop was Jasper - the largest wilderness park in the Canadian Rockies and part of the UNESCO Rocky Mountain World Heritage Site. One of Canada's most visited parks, with more than 2 million visitors coming each year to enjoy the wildlife and scenery.
Jasper town itself is small and stretches little more than one side of a train station through which the longest trains I have ever seen pass. I watched a goods train that must have been over a mile long trundle it's way through the station as I walked the Discovery Trail that traces the perimeter of town.
I had reached the final destination of my route bang on schedule and now it was time to about-turn and head back to Calgary. I was unsure whether I had chosen to do the right thing in covering the same ground on my way back but, surprisingly, the scenery seemed quite different on the return trip and it was like enjoying the whole route over.
It was the road trip of a lifetime and I certainly consider myself very lucky indeed to have seen such spectacular scenery - the scale of which a photo will never do justice.
And thankfully, I never needed that gun!
Trip Notes
Don't miss...
The Fraserway experience - their website is full of really useful tips and sound advice for the novice RV'er. They are extremely well organised and the service is excellent. Supersize - book the largest RV you can afford! Hire a mountain bike - great to be able to nip in to town without having to take the RV for that urgently needed milk...not to mention being an essential requirement to cycle to those more remote spots to enjoy the scenery away from the throngs.
Calgary - breakfast at the Buffalo Café (187 Barclay Parade SW) - an oasis amongst the skyscrapers. From Calgary take the I1A instead of the I1 - far more scenic.
Continued...
Trip Notes - Don't miss...
Banff - Bow River Falls, worth the riverside walk but no Niagra. Visit Banff Springs Hotel and Rimrock Hotel Hot Springs. Great views from the top of Sulphur Mountain - take the cable car up and trek back down.
En route from Banff to Lake Louise - Stop at Johnston Canyon and hike (around one hour) up the High Falls.
Lake Louise - Moraine Lake - go early morning when the sun will capture the colour of the water best. Lakeshore log cabins are popular. Cycle up to Lake Louise, lock up your bike and hike up to Mirror Lake (around an hour) and hike the further twenty minutes up to Agnes Lake. Reward yourself at the teahouse amongst truly amazing scenery.
En route to Jasper - Stop at Crowfoot Glacier viewpoint on I193 and Peyto Lake. Take in the view when you top the Sunwapta Pass. At the Columbia Icefield either take in the exhibition and then take a short drive and walk to the foot of the glacier, or take the Ice Explorer on to the glacier itself. Sunwapta Falls and Anthabasca Falls are only a short walk from their respective car parks and well worth the short stop.
Jasper - Take the Discovery Trail around town. Maligne Lake is a great excursion - lake cruises, rafting and kayaking are all highly recommended. Take the gondola for excellent views.
For more information see..
All words © Bruce Holdroyd
Photographs from Shutterstock.com