As we gently pedal through quaint Tirolean hamlets surrounded by lush mountains topped by reluctantly receding snow caps in the spring sunshine, that rich smell of freshness that only recent rain brings fills our lungs. All the while we’re steadily climbing but it’s genuinely enjoyable rather than taxing.
I’m more of a downhill and off-road cyclist than an uphill on-road one, and my wife is un-ashamedly a fan of the mainly flat variety of riding. Add the 16kg three-year old onto the back of my bike and you might well question the wisdom of a road cycling trip to the winding hairpins of the Austrian Alps.
Hitting the major hairpins and steeper hills my legs start to burn a bit but the pedals keep turning and I can still enjoy the view. Even Issy is loving it, insisting I take plenty of pictures of her ascending the steep, ramping road to have proof for her friends.
What’s the secret to our newfound climbing prowess? E-bikes, of course, without which all this suffering-free bike mountaineering would be impossible. Some might say this is cheating but we’re not here to win any yellow jerseys, we’re here to explore and take in the sights and mountain air.
This Austrian trip – and the e-bike transport which is helping us manage it – is the latest in our constant battle to be as adventurous and active as possible with Libby, our daughter who has the outdoor bug but obviously not yet the capability for any sort of distance.
After a final big climb through lovely forest lined roads, Lake Hintersteiner comes into view and we discuss whether to stop at the restaurant immediately in front of us, or head to the nicer one we’ve been told is five minutes away round the lake. We decide the nicer one sounds, well, nicer, and head off again. Cue otherworldly downpour as the heavens open…
By the time we arrive at the ‘nicer’ restaurant we are utterly drenched and as we walk in the whole restaurant stops, looks at us, and bursts into a collective chorus of laughter. This is quickly followed by sympathy, towels and a warming and hearty meat and noodle stew.
A good hour of drying off and refuelling later, the sun is back out and we begin our descent past the glistening lake to the sound of Libby’s whoops of pleasure at the speed we’re doing. It’s a stunning afternoon by now and we spend a hugely enjoyable few hours exploring the roads and paths back to Söll.
To be perfectly honest, our first e-bike mountain adventure was not entirely without its ‘moments’. That morning, after checking over the bikes and a quick tutorial we set off gently through the town to get used to them. The first push of the magic button – the one that gives you a boost of power to get you away from a standing start, for example – was a surprise to say the least. As we came to our first climb of note, I forgot to put it into the right mode and tried to do it while climbing. Not a good idea. The bike jolted as it searched for the right gear, tilted backwards under the weight of Libby on the back helped by the gradient, and got us pretty close to a full flip. I managed to get the front wheel back on the floor and learned my lesson despite Libby’s un-knowing shouts of “Do it again daddy that was fun!”
Down on the farm
Our base for the duration of our break is a farm stay in Söll called Knolln. A busy, family friendly ski resort in winter located in the Ski Welt area of the Tirol, in the summer Söll transforms into a mecca for cyclists and hikers. The snow might have receded but several lifts operate year-round for access to the high-altitude areas, and the spectacular views and fresh air that go with them.
The farm itself is straight out of a picture postcard; Tirolean architecture with stunning flowers in full bloom, the wonderful and welcoming Eisenmann family in full Tirolean dress and picturesque views to the mountains in every direction. ‘Knolln’ as it is known, has been operating as a farm since 1566 and the Eisenmann’s have been here for five generations.
This is a working farm so there is loads to explore with pigs, sheep, cows, rabbits and lots of play areas to entertain Libby when we’re not out and about. And the following day we’re not. It’s raining again. And not just a trickle or even a steady downpour. This is biblical, epic, straight down, relentless rain – the kind you only get in the mountains or tropics. It’s raining so hard it’s entertaining. With the day’s e-biking cancelled we watch the rain from the comfort of our superb and cosy apartment for a while until it eases enough to venture out.
When the rain subsides, we take the gondola to the renowned ‘Hexenwasser’ (witches water) mountain adventure area that won the Austrian award for innovation in tourism in 2016. There are some wonderful things to explore here with water play, clever natural sound-making areas where you can stick your head into a humming stone or try to play a stone harp, and nature trails with wood carvings which keep Libby thoroughly entertained for the afternoon.
The rest of our stay is punctuated with more electrically assisted rides exploring our mountain-top domain, as well as fun on the farm, feeding animals, playing on the tree swings dotted around and playing in the sandpits. Libby even managed a tractor ride on the mini farm tractor the family use to teach their own children how to drive one.
On our last evening, over a good Austrian beer, we reflect on the electrically assisted cycling holiday we’ve just finished. We’ve explored a mountain by bike, undaunted by what would have been intimidating ascents. Issy has bagged her first alpine cycling summit and we’ve managed to cover a respectable area away from our base, truly experiencing the mountain – something that we simply couldn’t have achieved from the inside of a car.
In our magazine (page 146) you’ll find an article asking if e-bikes are really cycling. Considering how these bikes have enabled our own cycling achievements, it clear to see why the question is rhetorical – who cares when it’s this much fun
Our trip
Accommodation
There are over 337 Tirolean Farms that are part of the ‘Farm stay Collection’. Knolln provided the perfect bed and breakfast accommodation. The apartments are very spacious with dining and cooking areas and plenty of space to feel comfortable relaxing indoors, and all have balconies to enjoy the views and big wooden seats. The farm itself is lovely with plenty outside to keep children entertained. From £60 per night for an apartment sleeping 2-3.
The Town
Söll is an excellent base with a friendly atmosphere and vibrant town centre with dozens of restaurants to suit all budgets. There are a good number of the ski lifts open year-round, a variety of activity zones for kids and superb crèches (get name) if you want to leave the children for a day. The area, linked with Ellmau and Scheffau, has a very reliable and regular bus service and the Kaiserbad swimming pool is a fun way to spend an afternoon.
Bike hire
Sport Edinger, at the bottom of the Gondola in Soll, provide excellent quality bikes and e-bikes for rent.
Getting there
Closest airports are Innsbruck (48 miles) and Munich (66 miles) or Salzburg (85 miles). Innsbruck is served by easyJet (www.easyjet.com) from London Gatwick. New for summer 2017 – direct flight from London Heathrow to Innsbruck twice a week with British Airways. Alternatively fly to Munich or Salzburg airport, which opens up a host of additional UK regional airports. Affordable resort transfers are available through Four Seasons Travel.
